After the Postgraduate Admission Test, I prepared my graduation trip for months. For sure I must take a nature tour, and it would be my first step out of China. At last I chose Sabah, for its richness of wildlife, good tourism service and attractive price, and I found a schoolmate to travel together (we spent 6, 300 CNY per person, including flight ticket, accommodation, meals and sightseeing). During the seven days stay in Sabah, I visited Lok Kawi Wildlife Park, Sabah Museum, Mt. Kinabalu Botanical Garden, Poring Hot Spring, Sepilok Orang Utan Rehabilitation Centre, Bornean Sun Bear Conservation Centre, Seligan Turtle Island, and finally the highlight, Kinabatangan Safari with Gomantong Caves. We booked the 3 Days 2 Nights Kinabatangan Safari Package from June 29th to July 1st through Nasalis Larvatus Tours Sdn. Bhd. Booking on their website inSabah was very convenient. We chose the Superior Agamid Chalet for 641.3 MYR. This price included accommodation, meals, river cruise and night walk with guide. Transfer from/to Sandakan or Sepilok area would take 40 MYR per person/way.
The first day The bus of the company picked us up at Sepilok. The transfer took 2 and a half hours. Then we arrived at Nature Lodge Kinabatangan, which is operated by Nasalis Larvatus Tours Sdn. Bhd. The room info of Superior Agamid Chalet online was Fan/ attached bathroom/ Twin beds/ towel provided. Surprisingly, our room had an air-condition! There were water heater in the bathroom, and drinking water in the battle is filled every day. The room was relatively clean, but still bugs in the room. However, I think it is hard to avoid in a jungle lodge. My Hotlink card can send messages, but no network signal.
On 4:00 pm, we took our first river cruise, which took 2 hour. As you can see on the picture, we took the boat down the Kinabatangan River, turn into the tributary. Then returned at the end of the forest. In fact, the forest along Kinabatangan River is very narrow, surrounded by palm farms. That might be the reason why the animals are easy to find, because they are limited near the river. These are secondary forest with restoration for 70 - 80 years, which has been a long time in my view. There were many companies operating similar safari in Bilit and Sukau, so we saw many boats of different companies. The river is wide, the boat cruise and different sides search for wildlife, when one guide find something, 4 or 5 boats will come quickly. Luckily, our guide Jonathan was a very talented wildlife seeker, he could always find more than other guides. Wildlife List: Birds: Storm's stork (Ciconia stormi) Northern Bornean crested serpent eagle (Spilornis cheela) great egret (Ardea alba) purple heron (Ardea purpurea) Sunda wrinkled hornbill (Rhabdotorrhinus corrugatus) Malabar pied hornbill (Anthracoceros coronatus) Mammals: long-tailed macaque (Macaca fascicularis) proboscis monkey (Nasalis larvatus) silvery langur (Trachypithecus cristatus) Bornean orangutan (Pongo pygmaeus) There were more species that Jonathan found and told us, but I missed a few, failed to take pictures and forgot the name. The long-tailed macaques, proboscis monkeys and Malabar pied hornbills are many, we saw them many times during the single cruise, while other species were only seen 1 or 2 times. On the tributary there were ropes tied on trees above the river. They were for the orangutans to go across the river, as they can not swim like the monkeys. This helped the orangutan against the habitat fragment, and might also benefit the monkeys, as they needed not risk to swim.
The meal was buffet, three courses and rice, and also fruit, tea and coffee. Nothing special but the taste is not bad. At 8:30 pm, we took a night walk for 45 minutes to 1 hour through the jungle. The trail in jungle was really muddy, so rubber boots were necessary, the rental were 10 MYR for all the staying. You can also bring yourself, but a pair of rubber boots is too heavy in the luggage. You also need long sleeve and pants, and it would be better if you have insect repellant. Flashlight were useful for both lighting the trail and searching for animals, but no headlight, as it would attract insects fly towards your eyes. Before the walk, Jonathan had claimed what we would see was all by luck. Actually we were lucky enough. Just a few minutes after we stepped into the jungle, Jonathan found a Western tarsier! However it run away immediately. Jonathan was also sorry for that. He wanted everyone of us to see the tarsier, as the last time it appeared was 2 month ago. What was more lucky was we found the tarier again! I am not sure whether it was the same individul, but this time the tarsier stayed there and did not move, and everyone saw it clearly. Wildlife List: Birds: dwarf kingfisher (Ceyx sp.) Mammals: Western tarsier (Cephalopachus bancanus) Amphibians and reptiles: a tiny frog gecko For small birds like kingfishers, Jonathan could call the name of each species, but I did not have a notebook to write them down. We did not see many the first night, but the tarsier was enough to make us excited.
The second day Morning river cruise began at 6:00 am, and took 1 hour before the breakfast. In the late afternoon, the monkeys came to the river bank to drink water, and spent the night near the river. In the morning, they would move deep into the jungle as the sun rise high. This time we saw several orangutans. Of course, long-tailed macaques were much more. Wildlife List: Birds: Oriental darter (Anhinga melanogaster) green pigeon (Treron sp.) Mammals: long-tailed macaque (Macaca fascicularis) Bornean orangutan (Pongo pygmaeus) Jungle were hidden in mist and looked like the heaven. However, it made the animals difficult to be seen.
You are so lucky to see the tarsier! Interestingly I was told that the ropes have not been a complete success, as they are worried the lack of swimming monkeys is affecting the crocodile population.
For travelers who booked the 2 Days 1 Nights Package, the Safari would end after the breakfast. Obviously for wildlife lovers it was not enough. 3 Days 2 Nights is more than double of 2 Days 1 Nights, because there will be a daytime jungle walk. At 9:00 am, there would be a jungle walk trekking to the Ox-Bow Lake (Could be seen on the map #3, to the south of the lodge). This is optional, for 26.5 MYR. I highly recommend the jungle walk. It would take 2 and a half to 3 hours and you can have a clearer view of the jungle than at night. On the trail we saw elephant dung, but old ones about 2 month ago. There were 9 herds about 200 Bornean elephants in Kinabatangan area. The habitat was fragmented, so the elephants were always on the move. Unfortunately they were far away at this time. Generally, during the daytime its hard to see mammals or birds. While, we saw some arthropods and a leech. Different from many people's impression, we did not find many leeches, and no one was bitten. When we got to the Ox-Bow Lake, there was a observation platform, we can see some proboscis monkeys playing at the other side. On the way back, Jonathan found orangutans again. This time we could observe them patiently, not like on the boat. They were a adult female orangutan with her baby, and a young one nearby, may be her elder child. That was a fig tree about 20 metres high and full of fruit. Orangutans are easy to find, because they do not like travel, and may stay on one tree for a long time until they eat up the fruit, and these trees are often pretty tall and noticeable. The orangutan mother also saw us, but she was very calm. After lunch it was hot and dry in the sun, good to dry clothes. There were no activity until the next river cruise on 4:00 pm. When I was going back to my room, I saw three Bornean bearded pigs passing through the camp! They might be trying to find some kitchen waste to eat. When I stood still, they did not care about me and passed by only 10 metres away, but when they noticed I was following them, they run into the jungle. Wildlife List: Mammals: proboscis monkey (Nasalis larvatus) Bornean orangutan (Pongo pygmaeus) Bornean bearded pig (Sus barbatus) Prevost's squirrel (Callosciurus prevostii) Others: leech stick insect Diplopoda My schoolmate said he saw birds of Galliformes walking through the camp, but I missed them.
Yes, I agree. Many conservation projects have the negative effect. As for conservation status, Bornean orangutan are of Critically Endangered while saltwater crocodiles are of Least Concern. But we can not say saltwater crocodiles are not important. The crocodile population in Kinabatangan may has its own genetic diversity.
you were indeed lucky to see tarsier. I don't think they are commonly seen around the Kinabatangan area. You're right about the forest just being a strip along each bank of the river. Behind that is palm plantation, and if you go a bit further up-river the forest disappears and there is nothing but oil palms. The elephants use the forest-strip to migrate between forested areas and that's when they come into conflict with people because they have to pass through the plantations as well. The pied hornbills, by the way, are Oriental Pied Hornbills A. albirostris - the Malabar Pied Hornbill is found only in India and Sri Lanka.
Thank you for correcting me, Chlidonias. Indeed they should be oriental pied hornbill (Anthracoceros albirostris)
At the second day Afternoon river cruise, Jonathan took us up stream for a while, then down stream as usual. So I said one more day had it special benefits. Why I admired Jonathan so much. At that time, monkeys appeared ahead, and 3 or 4 boats rush towards them, so did us. Suddenly, Jonathan braked the boat, and pointed to the tree trunk above the water. There was a Asian water monitor. Its color was so close to the bark than other guides all missed it, but Jonathan noticed it 10 metres away! Wildlife List: Birds: great egret (Ardea alba) oriental pied hornbill (Anthracoceros albirostris) rhinoceros hornbill (Buceros rhinoceros) common kingfisher (Alcedo atthis) Mammals: long-tailed macaque (Macaca fascicularis) southern pig-tailed macaque (Macaca nemestrina) proboscis monkey (Nasalis larvatus) Bornean orangutan (Pongo pygmaeus) Amphibians and reptiles: Asian water monitor (Varanus salvator) Jonathan also found one or two langur species, but I did not see them. I thought them were shier than macaques or proboscis monkeys.
Just when we were gathering to take the second night walk. The Bornean bearded pigs came to the camp again. This time everyone had a clear view of them. We thought it was a night of arthropods, not only found by Jonathan, we guys also found some by ourselves. After 45 minutes we came back to the camp, feeling nothing more special. However just before we disbanded, a Malay civet appeared in the camp! It was also not afraid us, just searching for food around the house, and turned around and looked at us before left. Jonathan said the civet in Sabah was just like the raccoon in America. Local people may think the civet to be common, but for us travelers, it was amazing. Wildlife List: Birds: unidentified Mammals: Bornean bearded pig (Sus barbatus) Malay civet (Viverra tangalunga) Others: Opiliones scorpions whip scorpions As you see, there was not much to see during the night walk, but everything was exciting!
The third day It was our last 1-hour morning river cruise. There was no mist, replaced by beautiful morning glow. Macaques were as common as usual, and we saw small birds that could not be seen in mist. There was little time left. Jonathan said we needed to be hurry, as he wanted to ensure we saw the crocodile. Then the boat began to rush along the river, no more stay at monkeys. I did not know why Jonathan was so confident, as we did not see a crocodile the last two days. Anyway, Jonathan made it in the last 15 minutes! A saltwater crocodile. Wildlife List: Birds: great egret (Ardea alba) stork-billed kingfisher (Pelargopsis capensis) bee-eater Mammals: long-tailed macaque (Macaca fascicularis) southern pig-tailed macaque (Macaca nemestrina) Amphibians and reptiles: saltwater crocodile (Crocodylus porosus) It was a happy ending of our safari. Everyone applauded Jonathan, our outstanding guide!
Before back to Sepilok or Sandakan, you can also add a Gomantong Caves visit through the company for 159 MYR (exclude camera fee for 30 MYR). In fact the entrance fee is only 30 MYR, but the question is it is hard to get there by yourself. The main cave system is divided into two parts: Simud Hitam (Black Cave) which is accessible to visitors, and the larger Simud Putih (White Cave) which lies above. The names refer to the main type of nests produced by swiftlets in each cave: The black-nest swiftlet (Aerodramus maximus) and edible (white)-nest swiftlet (Aerodramus fuciphagus). The nest collection seasons are February to April and July to September. Between it the swiftlets lay eggs and breed their young. We checked out from Nature Lodge Kinabatangan at 8:30 am, and arrived at the caves at 9:00 am. After a short walk through the jungle, we arrive at the Black Cave. The cave was about 40 - 60 metres high, with massive populations of cockroaches and bats inside it. There was thick manure on the ground. We walked on the boardwalk but the shoes still got dirty. In the toilet outside you can clean your shoes. And the guide prepared helmet for us, because the bat feces would drop. We saw a poor baby bat dropped on the boardwalk. It seemed to be weak and no hope to survive. It might be a wrinkle-lipped free-tailed bat (Chaerephon plicatus), which was the main bat species in Gomantong Caves. The visiting took only 40 minutes, and then we went back to Sandakan. Here was also a reserve, with many wildlifes. The nightly exodus of bats was a popular tourist attraction, and there would be raptors hunting the bat, but we can not see that. I think if we could spend more time here and stay till the sundown, we would have seen much more.
