Exhibit for an animal in a studbook (EEP/ESB/ISB/SSP)

The idea of this challenge is to create an exhibit or an area centered around an animal that is registered in a studbook, in a way that it fits inside the current studbook structure. This means that certain factors need to be taken into account, for example the availability of certain genders or ages but also pre-existing in-situ campaigns. If other species are present, it is recommended that they also fit in the current captive population (though they do not need to be part of another studbook, a lot of common zoo animals aren't). A certain point of creativity is of-course allowed, for example if you know species kept in private that could be acquired that's also possible. For some species, wild-caught individuals are also commonly available like most fish and some reptiles. On the other hand a species like marine-iguana for example that's only illegally kept by one private keeper and illegal to catch is obviously not an option. The idea here is to make a rather realistic exhibit that would theoretically fit in in a real zoo, but feel free to be creative with the exhibit and species.

To give an example with some factors that should be taken into account for western lowland gorilla (Gorilla gorilla gorilla):

• Large excess of males, a program in dire need of more bachelor male groups. Most new zoos will be forced to take bachelors. One option for zoos that really want to breed to get around this is to house both a breeding and a bachelor group. This does of-course mean that two exhibits need to be made.
• The newest husbandry guidelines want complex indoor exhibits consisting of multiple indoor rooms (like GaiaZoo's for example), as these do benefit welfare
• They are easily accompanied by smaller primates or even birds in aviaries, which is both good for other breeding programs and for enrichment. It's also interesting for visitors to see the interactions, but in smaller exhibits it might not be possible to combine gorillas with other animals. This is an important choice to consider.
• Pre-existing in-situ and educational campaigns in Congo (for the eastern gorilla) and Cameroon about deforestation, mining and bushmeat. Also fundraising throughout zoos for these projects. Separate projects can be set-up, but they can also fit inside this larger picture. Another choice to make.

Ask me and I'll give you a species. You are allowed specify the region if you have a certain preference. I will give one or two hints about certain important factors, but for the rest it's up to you to learn more about the species and the studbook.

 

Can I get a species? I'm an AZA advocate so I have access to the studbooks too.

 

Orang-utan (I will leave it up to you which species, feel free to advocate why that species).

 

Oh yeah, the hints. I suspect you don't really need them but still I promised to give them.

It's quite widespread knowledge now, but the classical way of housing orang-utans in one large group is no longer seen as the ideal practice.

Privacy is an often overlooked problem with many species, including great apes.

Bonus (not necessarily part of an exhibit): Orang-utans are browsers, so browse will need to be available year-round.

 

Okay, I'd want to start a population with 1.1 breeding-age Bornean orangutans because they are usually solitary but do have a complex social structure. Just having 1.1 orangutans will allow for the creation of a new group.

Male
House Name: Satu
Studbook ID: 3108
Date of Birth: 11/30/03
Sire: 2626
Dam: 2500
Reason for Acquisition: Zoo Atlanta has a large population of orangutans in 5 groups, so this would allow for another male to move into Group 1 and breed with #2626.

Female
House Name:
Studbook ID: 3334
Date of Birth: 8/3/08
Sire: 1403
Dam: 1753
Reason for Acquisition: Zoo Tampa at Lowry Park also has a large population of orangutans. Randee is the only female at Lowry who is not currently caring for an infant, and while she is pretty young, it would giver her and Satu a chance to acclimate to each other before breeding is attempted. Also, she is recommended for contraception at Lowry so she is not part of a strategic plan yet.


Exhibit
Temperature & Humidity
The zoo would be located in Central/Eastern North Carolina because we are in dire need of a closer animal facility. The humidity is high for orangutans but measures can be taken (i.e. watering the plants in the evening so water doesn't evaporate during the hot hours of the day, giving the orangutans access to the indoor areas whenever they would like). The temperature in the spring, summer, and early fall are ideal for orangutans but they can stand temperatures into the winter. They will also have basking opportunities on wooden structures and fire-hose hammocks as well as shady areas to provide cooler temperatures during the hotter hours of the summer.

Light
The outdoor areas don't need any supplemental light but the indoor areas will have windows and ceiling lights.

Water and Air Quality
The exhibit will be surrounded by hollow "rock" walls with fans inside to provide large-scale ventilation which will help with the humidity as well as some of the hotter temperatures in the summer. The indoor holding area will also have a ventilation system to eliminate dampness and odor.
In the far left of the viewing area, there is a waterfall that leads into a filtered moat for enrichment and drinking opportunities. This moat extends around the exhibit. They are provided with an automatically-refilling water trough indoors.

Space and Complexity
Adequate climbing, swinging, and basking enrichment will be provided using wood, rope, and firehose as well as trees and spaces to build nests. Enrichment objects will be provided, such as tires, swings, puzzles, and feeders. The exhibit is 25,000 sq ft.

Privacy and Viewing
The orangutans will be viewed from a hut that is a good 20 feet off the ground. The size of the exhibit and the year-round access to their holding areas allow for enough privacy.

Browse
The zoo will have a browse-growing area but the exhibit will also be build around some trees which can be periodically trimmed to prevent escape and can be used for browse.

 

I do have three questions:

• You mention humidity, but based on the EAZA and AZA manuals, Borneo climate data and North-Carolina climate data I don't really see such a big problem there that requires such elaborate methods as fans in an outdoor exhibit. It seems also quite contradictory to have a waterfall which greatly increases humidity and humidity decreasing fans at the same time.
• This seems like a decent exhibit for a pair or a small group, but what if the groups get's larger and male's are born? It could also be important to separate the male from the female(s) sometimes as this can induce reproduction, whilst keeping the male continuously with female(s) can hinder reproduction. This exhibit seems to suffer from the same problem as many other exhibits in that it lacks flexibility. Something that is in your defense still standard practice in most zoos.
• Is there a particular reason you decided not to house another species with the orangs? I can imagine that with many gibbon SSP's not going well that additional places for gibbons would be appreciated. Not that it's an obligation, I'm just curious.

Besides the lack of flexibility I must say I really like the exhibit. The fact that there is only viewing from one place does solve the problem of privacy that too many zoos suffer from. In most places I'd also be concerned about privacy in their indoor quarters but the year-round access to the outdoor enclosure solves that perfectly. You really did choose the location wisely. I like the added detail of the exact individuals, something I can only dream of without acces to the studbooks themselves.

Also do you want another species?

 

The AZA care manual says that orangutan humidity should range between 30%-70% because anything above 70% causes ideal conditions for bacterial diseases which could cause concern for zoonotic transmission and has been shows to reduce the orangutan's lifespan to 4-5 years. The waterfall is mostly for spectacle but it also creates a mechanism for filtration of the water.

If males are born, they can stay in the group until around age 14 because that is what the AZA says is sexual maturity. However, they can be transferred to other facilities by the age of 6. Also, it would be a possibility to form multiple groups as well.

I decided not to house other species with the orangutans because new sensations can stress animals out, particularly if they are not raised together and from what I can tell, neither of their respective facilities house orangutans with gibbons. Also, the only species I've seen cohabited with orangutans is siamangs and there's not a necessity for placement of siamangs, but I don't really know.

 

I want to participate so Challenge Accepted! Please assign me a species.

 

Interesting. The EAZA one mentions 80% as also acceptable. I suppose much depends on the air flow, especially in indoor exhibits I think this might be a problem.

In Europe they are successfully kept with a handfull of species, including grey langurs, lion-tailed macaque and several species of gibbon. They are also kept with asian small-clawed otters and binturongs, but I don't know how successful those really are. Still orang-utans make a great exhibit on their own.

 

Egyptian tortoise, feel free to choose the region as they have both and EEP and SSP.

Sometimes display setups are not ideal for breeding, think wider than just the display exhibit. Breeding is very rare, so simply choosing not to breed is not advised.

Breeding groups are advised to be female-biassed leading to excess males.

 

I'll choose, if I can choose existing zoos, the Saharan Fauna Rescue Park in Almeria, Spain.

As the climate in Almeria is Mediterranean, the exhibit will be both indoor and outdoor.

Exhibit

Temperature and Humidity
With the normal Almeria temperature at 28-30 C°, they will have a stream that ends in a mini pond in the outdoor exhibit, so they can refresh. Underwater, there will be some mini humidifiers to increase the humidity to around 35-40 %. With the normal humidity being 15% in Almeria, it is insufficient for Egyptian Tortoises. Also, they'll have 2 shelters consisting of one hollow log and a mini cave in the inside of the stone, in the outdoor exhibit, both of them with humidifiers and a little wet so the shelters don't become too hot.

The indoor exhibit will only be used in cold days and mostly will consist of dry substrate, with a small wooden shelter and bowls of food and water. Its humidity will be more controlled than in the outdoor part and the temperature will be regulated, decreasing or increasing the temperature inside, depending on the temperature outside.

Light
The light will only be needed in the indoor exhibit, as the outdoor uses solar light. With 2 UV-B lamps covering the entire indoor enclosure, it would be enough for them to receive Vitamin D3. Also, these lamps would not be on all day, just around 10-14 hours which is the photo period time in the wild for Egyptian Tortoises.

Water and Air Quality
The water in the outdoor enclosure, will be somewhat separated by a small barrier, there would be a space in which they can bathe themselves or refresh themselves in and the other would be for drinking water. Although, in case this fails, we would still provide bowls of water in the outdoor enclosure, hidden for visitors and located near bushes and near rocks.

Space and Complexity
As Egyptian Tortoises should be treated like if they were wild, they don't have enrichment, just we will plant some local desert plants they eat around the exhibit, so they can eat them whenever they want. Also, we will weekly, as a little enrichment, hide their food and make them search for it. The indoor exhibit is around 6 m² with the outdoor exhibit being about 20 m².

Privacy and Viewing
Visitors will be able to see the Tortoises in two different points:

The first one will be on the outdoor enclosure, with a path coming at the front side of the exhibit, with education signs, information and a volunteer answering questions from visitors.

The second area is in the inside of the building, and visitors are able to see the tortoises through a medium sized glass fence with the same volunteer answering questions here too. Also, the information signs will be placed around and visitors can be able to see the tortoises being fed once a day.

When it comes to privacy, the back of the exhibit is not at reach for the public's eye so the tortoises, if feeling stressed, can stay there, safe and relaxed. In the indoor exhibit, there's also a small space where the tortoises can go if wanting to be alone or away from the public.

The vegetation will be native to Egypt and Libya with species eaten or common in the wild. These bushes, will also provide a hiding site for food, water and even the tortoises. For security, tortoises will sleep at the indoor enclosure and in some cases, also sleep outside. Both the indoor and outdoor enclosures are connected, but the entrance can only fit tortoises.

For the individuals, I will bring 1.3 with one of the females being post reproductive age and the other two in primer reproductive age. Hopefully, we'll breed them and help to increase numbers of this species. I don't have access to the EEP studbook so if you have, please send the individuals you think would fit on this new holding area.

Hope you like it!

 

I think it's a great exhibit and I love how you incorporated it in an existing zoo. This exhibit is hands-down better than most zoos reptile exhibits, reptile welfare is too often neglected in real zoos (and also in a lot of fantasy exhibit sadly enough). I also believe chances are the animals will actually breed in there. The only problem I see is that native plants that are eaten by the tortoises probably won't survive long, unless they are replaced every now and then.

I don't have the EEP studbook sadly enough, but I know some zoos do breed on the regular and confiscated animals are also available from time to time. Do you want another one?

 

Yeah, I want another one and regarding the native plants, they'll be used just in special occasions such as festivities, or an important foraging demonstration to the public.

 

May I have another one?

 

Perfectly fine. What about spotted-eagle ray (Aetobatus ocellatus)

• Sharks tend to eat pups, you can either not mix them or use certain tactics to prevent contact between pups and sharks. Feel free to choose either way.
• Some setup is needed for rearing the young.
• Wild-caught individuals are still available, so at the moment you don't have to worry about surplus males.

Certainly, what about toco toucan (Ramphastos toco)?

• Breeding toucans is a delicate task. Simply holding one permanent pair too often doesn't result in breeding. It's also a direct hit or permanent fail when it comes to breeding pairs
• They are very aggressive during breeding, but in other times mixed exhibits might be possible.

 

@Jarne , just to let you know, that sometimes I might delay on replying but I really like this thread, so gonna put out all my effort on it.

 

No problem, I'm also not the fastest replier to such threads myself. Take all the time you want!

 

Acquiring the Toucans
Toco toucans are a part of the AZA's SSP but can also be found from exotic pet shops and breeders. If possible, this zoo should get young, hand-raised toucans to promote better breeding odds and so that the toucans are acclimated to the space and the keepers. Once their two original toucans have hopefully bred and produced chicks and are past reproductive age, they will be moved permanently into the indoor exhibit. Once they have passed reproductive age, they are no longer as much of a threat to other bird species.

Exhibit Basics
Okay, I'm thinking a circular outdoor exhibit attached to an indoor aviary. The circular exhibit will have a ~20 diameter (an area of 314.16 sq ft) that is 15 feet tall. This is a total volume of 4712.39 cubic feet. In the center will be one large, fake tree. However the tree will look and feel realistic because it serves a purpose both for the viewer and for the toucans. The exhibit will be roofed with translucent glass. This minimizes the chances of toucans breaking their beaks after running into glass because it is not completely transparent but allows for some natural light. There will also be several live plants in the enclosure.

Hydration and Feeding
In the invisible crevices of the tree will be hidden water bowls because researches speculate that ramphastids get their hydration from these cracks. There will also be hidden slabs of wood on which the keepers can place fruit and treats. The toucans also require a tiny bit of mist or rain, and since neither is 100% guaranteed in every climate, the exhibit will also have a hidden misting system. A sizable divot will be made in the tree for bathing.

Substrate
The ground will be made of concrete covered by a silicone mat designed to look like a tropical forest floor. This is for cleaning purposes. Since the toucans' diet is primarily fruit, they also defecate a lot and will require easy cleaning access. This removable silicone mat will provide easy cleaning for both the mat and the concrete beneath.

Temperature
On days where it is predicted to get below 45 degrees Fahrenheit/7.2 degrees Celsius, the toucans will have access to both an indoor holding pen and the indoor aviary, as well as being able to venture out into the outdoor aviary as well. On days where it is predicted to get below 35 F/1.7 C, the toucans will only be allowed inside the indoor aviary/holding pen, and for days where rain heavier than a light mist is predicted, they will only be allowed inside.

Special Needs
The toucans will need a mesh such as this (product PM1625 or PM1225) to keep them in the aviary without harm because anything larger could damage their beaks. Also, the female will have a specialized hiding box in case the male becomes too aggressive during breeding season.

Enrichment Opportunities & Breeding
The fake tree will have several hanging points so that keepers can hang different enrichment items. It will also have several tree cavities to promote breeding behavior. If chicks are hatched, they are more likely to be successful at breeding and it promotes good behavior and health if they are hand-reared. After 10 weeks, the bird should be placed in another aviary or at a different institution.

Toucans
Male
Current Institution: Dallas World Aquarium because they have an EXTREME surplus of Toco toucans
Studbook ID: 958
DOB: 5/13/17
Sire: 889
Dam: 870

Female
Current Institution: Riverbanks Zoo because they have a surplus of Toco toucans.
Studbook ID: 991
DOB: 5/23/2018
Sire: 863
Dam: 890

 

Interesting. Why the preference for hand-raised animals? After all they are more difficult to breed than parent-reared animals (at least that's how the EAZA put it in here: https://www.eaza.net/assets/Uploads/Zooquaria/ZQIssues/Zooquaria-90-LR.pdf)? I hope it's not the actual recommendation of AZA to hand-rear them, not that it would really surprise me as they made the same recommendation for dik-dik (a species that breeds fine parent-reared in Europe).

I love the way you incorporated their natural way of living in the display. You attention to toxicity and mesh-safety is impressive.

 

The AZA care guide says that no detrimental effects have been observed from hand-rearing, and in fact, it decreases the risk of harmful, nervous, or clumsy behaviors such as running into mesh or chipping parts of the beak off. It also allows the toucans to be trained at a young age.