Hix returns to East Africa

Last year when I visited East Africa I wanted to visit four countries - Kenya, Tanzania, Uganda and Rwanda - but after doing some research realised I could only afford to visit one. As Mountain Gorillas were my #1 priority (and Shoebills were #2) I was left with Uganda as the only option. And so I spent 18 wonderful days travelling around the 'Pearl of Africa' last August, as recorded in the thread http://www.zoochat.com/1679/hix-does-uganda-330394/ .

During my research into Tanzania I discovered that it is possible to climb Kilimanjaro. The word 'climb', however, is not entirely accurate, as it is actually just a hike to the summit, there is no actual climbing with ropes and pitons and going up vertical cliff faces. While researching this, for some reason that completely escapes me, I suddenly developed an insatiable desire to hike to the top of Kilimanjaro. I have no interest in climbing any other mountain anywhere in the world, and have never had any interest in mountaineering (apart from enjoying a nice view), so why I have this urge is beyond me.

So this year I'm going to Tanzania. And while there I'm going to 'do' Kilimanjaro. Of course, I can't visit Tanzania without visiting some of the National Parks, so after the climb I'm going on safari too. As well as seeing lots of mammalian wildlife, the guide I have been given is a bird guide, so I should get in some excellent birding as well. With any luck I'll also see quite a few reptiles too.

And all this starts in mid-September.

Stay tuned.



Hix

 

I look forward to taking the virtual journey with you, Hix. It sounds like you have a grand adventure ahead.

Tanzania is at the top of my list of countries to visit. I've worked with lots of giraffe DNA from Tanzania, but haven't been there yet in person.

 

Sounds like a great trip Hix, look forward to hearing all about it!

How does climbing/hiking Kilimanjaro work - do you have to go with a guide/tour company, or can you just wander up by yourself? Will you need to do any training for it?

 

Sounds like a great trip ! Any "most wanted" among the wildlife ?

 

I'm looking forward to living vicariously through your thread/blog.

I've known at least 5 people who have attempted to climb Kilimanjaro and only 3 of them made it to the summit. It is regarded as a mountain that just about anyone can climb but the lack of oxygen is apparently overwhelming at times and a guided tour seems to make sense for anyone who does not regularly hike up mountains.

Here is an intriguing list of books:

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/Books-while-preparing-climb-kilimanjaro/lm/R274PQ1PVHF6R5]Amazon.com: Books to read while preparing to climb mount kilimanjaro[/ame]


I own this one and really enjoyed it:

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/Kissing-Kilimanjaro-Leaving-All-Africa/dp/1594853703/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1405556540&sr=1-1&keywords=kissing+kilimanjaro]Kissing Kilimanjaro: Leaving It All on Top of Africa: Daniel Dorr: 9781594853708: Amazon.com: Books[/ame]

 

@David Brown - all tippelskirchi, according to my books. If I see anything that looks different I'll make sure to post some photos for you, with location details, so you can justify a funding application for your own safari!

@zooboy28 - people have died on Kilimanjaro, and it's the centrepiece of Kilimanjaro National Park, so it's controlled by the TZ government. You can only climb the mountain with a registered guiding company, and there are plenty of companies offering the opportunity. I just looked back at my first post in this thread and realised I didn't state the timeframe for a climb (I planned on going into more detail in a later post): although you are hiking to the top, it takes a week. At this stage I am going up by myself (i.e I am the only customer on the climb) but the company provides me with a support team of seven people - a guide, an assistant guide, a cook and four porters. And as snowleopard alluded to, the altitude is a serious obstacle that can cause serious medical problems on the mountain. It prevents some people from summitting, others don't pack enough warm clothing (it's fairly warm/hot at the base but the peak is permanently snowcapped, and there's a 28km long glacier on the mountain).

As for training, I'm used to walking 5-10km on level terrain with no problems, but up a slope is a different matter, so I've been doing some walking and I joined a gym so I can walk up an incline on a treadmill. This has the added benefit of a cardio workout as well which is important to increase my lung capacity, necessary in the rarefied atmosphere.

@Vogelcommando - most wanted? I haven't got room to list them all here!

For the Mammals, in particular I want to see Gerenuk, Kirk's dik-dik, Abbott's Duiker (endangered), Fringe-eared Oryx, Sengi - any species, any of the Dwarf Galagos, Cheetah, Aardwolf, Ratel, Ground Pangolin and Springhare.

Birds is an even longer list but both Fischer's and Yellowcollared Lovebirds, both Greater and Lesser Flamingos, any and all Turacos, Vulturione Guineafowl, African Pygmy Falcon, Bluenaped Mousebird, Hoopoe, Scimitarbill, barbets and some of the endemics and endangered species - like the Long-billed Tailorbird and Beesley's Lark (which is critical).

Reptiles - any and all Chameleons, and some of the more famous snakes like the Egg-eaters, Boomslang, Mambas, Cobras and Gaboon Viper. Plus Rock Pythons and Leopard Tortoise.

I'm also looking for an endangered species of flower. More about that later


@Snowleopard - thanks for that booklist, I never considered reading anything other than what's in the travel guides and the info the company has sent me. Interestingly, the first book on that list is by Henry Stedman who works for the company I'm using! I might buy one or two of those books to read on the way.




Hix

 

I've had confirmation of some more parts of the holiday, here's the itinerary at this stage:

Flying into Entebbe, Uganda, for three days. Visit Mabamba Swamp and try for the shoebills again, plus any other birds that are available. Followed by a visit to Mpanga Forest for more birding. The next day a visit to the Ugandan Wildlife Education Centre and the Entebbe Botanic Gardens.

Then I fly to Arusha in Tanzania, overnighting in a lodge outside of town with extensive planted grounds so I can go birding the afternoon/evening I arrive. The very next day I start the climb on Kilimanjaro, returning to the same hotel a week later.

After a day to recover, I then fly to Mwanza on the shores of Lake Victoria, and stay at Speke's Bay. This is followed by a few days in different parts of the Serengeti, then Lake Natron, Ngorongoro, Lake Manyara, Tarangire, Arusha National Park, Mkomazi and finally a few days in the Usambara Mountains, finishing up very close to the coast with the Indian Ocean.

Then a return to Arusha for a couple of days to wind down before the flight back to Entebbe and then on to Sydney from there.

All up, 5 weeks (exactly 35 days) in Africa.



Hix

 

Do you know which one it is, specifically? Some have small captive collections - some of which are excellent.

 

At this stage I've asked for Kigongoni, next to Lake Duluthi. It has large grounds thast appear - from Google Earth anyway - to be well vegetated. And of course it's right next to the Lake which appears to be surrounded by forest.

If Kigongoni is not available, my second choice is Rivertrees.



Hix

 

I have read the book "Picnic on Mt Kilimanjaro"

It was written by an Italian POW in WW2 who was held in a camp near the mountain. Him and some friends stole equipment and food, until they had enough for the climb. They then escaped and had some adventures climbing the mountain before returning to the POW camp.

It is one mountain I would love to climb too. I once spent 6 weeks mountaineering in Canada with an ex girlfriend. The first mountain is good, second like the first and after that I just found them a hard slog up and down with almost the same view at the top and pretty pointless.

 

And the first ugly problem has raised it's little head.

AS outlined, I spend three days in Entebbe before flying to Arusha. Only one airline flies directly from Entebbe to Arusha, Air Uganda. They only fly three times a week, so everything is booked around the days I could get a flight. If they change one of the days, it upsets everything. This includes my departure back to Australia.

Last week I received an email stating that the departure time of the flight back to Entebbe had now changed - it was leaving an hour earlier. This is no big deal and is not of concern.

A few hours ago I received another email. Their Air Operators Certificate has been suspended, and so all flights are now cancelled. My money will be refunded, but I now have to find alternative transport, none of which flies directly from Entebbe to Arusha.

Grrrr.......



Hix

 

An easier option might be to get the bus - there's a Scandinavia bus that goes from Kampala to Arusha, via Nairobi - http://www.scandinaviagroup.com/Sca...dinavia_express_routemap_uganda_kampmoshi.htm. They're a well-regarded company, and though long, the journey should be fine. I'm not sure whether there would be any visa issues, travelling through Kenya.

 

Yeah, that'd be fun, except all my bookings accommodation for five weeks at multiple locations, have all been organised and paid for. I can't change them without having very exact dates.

The only certain way is to fly. So I have four options (as far as I can tell):

1. Rwandair flight to Kigali, then another Rwandair to Kilimanjaro (JRO)
2. Kenya Air to Nairobi (NRO), then Precision Air to JRO.
3. Air Ethiopia to Addis Ababa, another Air Ethiopia flight to NRO, then Precision to JRO
4. Coastal Air (a light charter company) flies from Entebbe to Arusha Airport via the Serengeti and Ngorongoro (and possibly a few other smaller airstrips).

And all have drawbacks:

1. The window between flights in Kigali is only 45 minutes. If the first flight is delayed I might miss the connection and have to wait 24 hours for the next.
2. Spending time in Nairobi Airport (which was bombed recently by terrorists), and switching airlines which can increase the chances of luggage going missing.
3. So many drawbacks: Air Ethiopia; Addis Ababa; Nairobi; three different flights; it is by far the longest option (but also the cheapest by a long shot).
4. They need a minimum number to operate, and they are by far the most expensive.

I've spoken to the safari company and they've given me some advice to consider. Will probably make up my mind tomorrow.



Hix

 

Something to consider, but I'd rather fly as it gives me more time at the end, and if there is a delay I have that extra time as a buffer.

But something to keep in the back of my mind.



Hix

 

Are you trying to top snowleopards trip?

 

No - is he going to Africa too?



Hix

 

no but he has done a lot of road trips so this trip of rours may be to top his

 

His road trips are to see zoos.

My trips are to see animals in the wild, and in this instance to also climb Kilimanjaro. Two different things.

If anything I'll be trying to top Chlidonias' bird and mammal counts, although I don't know if I'll succeed.



Hix

 

You'd have to be a pretty sad individual to go all the way to Africa to 'top' anyone's trip!