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Into the unknown: zoos of western France

Discussion in 'France' started by lintworm, 1 Sep 2020.

  1. lintworm

    lintworm Well-Known Member 15+ year member

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    Despite being a huge country with some of Europe's premier zoos and aquaria, France attracts surprisingly little attention on Zoochat. A lot of this will be due to the English bias on the site. It does however not explain why Zoochatters flock en masse to Germany and Eastern Europe, instead of France. Part of this explanation will certainly be that in terms of rarities, France does lack behind, but many zoos do have an interesting collection. In terms of enclosures, France seems to be ahead of most other countries when it comes to outdoor enclosures (but with one gigantic exception!), even when separation and indoor facilities can be spartan... I think that one of the most important reasons why France is so underrepresented is that what is unknown is unloved and most French zoos are certainly virtually unknown here. I saw the same when visiting NE Germany in July, this undervisited region has some of Germany's finest zoos and it's best aquarium, but as no-one posts much about them, it is not visited.

    This August I spent 2 weeks traveling throughout the western part of France, visiting all major zoos and aquariums in that area. Unfortunately due to COVID restrictions, I could not visit Paris and the Parc des Felins in the end, but given that those are some of the very few zoos in France easily reached by public transport from the Netherlands, I will be back.... Contrary to my normal modus operandi of using public transport only, I traveled by car in France. Public transport outside of cities is horrendous and the vast majority of zoos is located in the middle of nowhere.

    In total I visited 31 zoos and aquaria during my trip, on average slightly more than 2 per day, and in most cases I will post relatively short reviews on each institution. For some of the larger or impressive ones, I will make an exception though ;).
     
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  2. lintworm

    lintworm Well-Known Member 15+ year member

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    The first day was only one of the three days in which I would only visit one zoo, not because the institution in question is that big, but because I had 400 km to drive from the Netherlands. Contrary to the Netherlands, COVID19 regulations in most French zoos are much more relaxed a. On paper it is however obligatory / strongly advised for some of the aquariums, so I had reserved a time slot for 14:30 for Europe's largest aquarium.

    Nausicaa, Boulogne-sur-mer

    On arrival it did however quickly become clear that what is written online, is not necessarily the case on the ground. It did save time to enter the aquarium with a reserved time slot, but there was a huge queue of people without tickets, who could all access the aquarium without problems. It quickly became clear that social distancing only occurs on paper in France and the aquarium was absolutely packed and people did not even want to keep distance to eachother. At least everybody was wearing face masks, but contrary to claims online there was exactly zero effort in crowd control.

    Nausicaa basically consists of two parts: the original exhibitions which are 10-30 years old and "The High Seas", the 2018 extension, both are connected by a large hall, which means you can visit both parts as often as you want, so no forced exit after one round. I decided to start with the High Seas, this part is modeled around Malpelo Island, far off the coast of Colombia. The theming and educational displays are impressive here and it starts as soon as you quite literally take an escalator down "into the deep", through a huge video screen with waves.

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    On arrival a large jellyfish tank bids you welcome. Even though you already have descended, the first view into the main tank, shows that you are only just below the surface. The high seas is an exposition modeled around the main 10 million liter tank. You walk around the main tank and there are small glimpses into it along the way, including a short tunnel. As you descend there are several aquaria along the way, representing different habitats on different depths. These are generally of a high quality and the most eye-catching is an artificial reef showing how reefs can be restored using artificial materials. This tank is home to several large moray eels, large groupers and smaller reef fish. Overall the number of tanks is rather limited, but each one is rather nice.

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    After a longer descent and many glimpses, one finally arrives to the main viewing window of the open ocean tank. With 10 million liter this is Europe's largest tank. The main tank measures roughly 60 x 30 x 10 meters and the adjoining separation tank alone holds 700.000 liters. Contrary to many other large tanks, there is a real sense of depth here and due to smart design it is nearly impossible to see other viewing windows from each viewpoint. Smart lighting also means that from every viewpoint the inhabitants can disappear into the blue. The main viewing window (roughly 20x5 meters) is located on one of the short ends of the tank, giving even more depth than otherwise. The design of this tank is very spectacular and means it is so much more than just a large tank with large fish, as is the case in Singapore or Lisbon, to name just a few examples. The number of species represented is relatively low. There are however large schools of Mackerels, False Herrings and other schooling fish. The number of larger fish is relatively low however, with Black-nosed Guitarfish, Spotted Eagle Ray, Common Eagle Ray, a smaller Mobula species and Sandbar Shark (a few large individuals) being the main residents. The big star is however the only Giant Manta Ray in Europe. Unfortunately the other individual has already died, as have all the Scalloped Hammerheads and this shows. Whereas the tank is extremely impressive, it could do with some more large fish and maybe less smaller fish. The negative here is that the species signage is on a very slow slide show on the electronic signage, which simply doesn't work if you have >50 species signed....

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    Afterwards one takes an escalator to the top, from where you can view the tank from above, which is a nice final touch:
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    Unfortunately the rest of the aquarium looks extremely dated when compared to the new extension. Educational displays are much less sophisticated, tanks are often small and sometimes overcrowded. Most importantly the architecture hasn't aged well at all, with a strange angular design and gloomy rooms. And it certainly wasn't meant to handle the current crowds. There is the obvious selection of local aquaria, some tropical reef tanks and an Amazonian flooded forest is the only freshwater tank around (together with a wearly place New Guinea tank). There are also several reptile and amphibian displays dotted around. Additionally there is also a Californian Sea Lion pool, with beach views and an African Penguin enclosure.

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    Sea lion tunnel

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    Sea lion enclosure with beach view

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    Amazonian flooded forest


    The highlight here is clearly the lagoon area. This is divided into two main sections: sharks and a coral reef, with small side-displays of a mangrove and a tiny beach with an Aldabra Giant Tortoise. The shark tank holds roughly 1 million liters, if I am correct, and houses Sand Tigers, Nurse Sharks, a Sea Turtle and some larger fish. It really is quite boring, but it is interesting to watch from above. The coral reef section is much more interesting. There is a very large shallow part with living corals and small fish, that can only be viewed from above. This was a new perspective for me and it was very entertaining to watch all the smaller fish go about their business. The deeper coral part hosted many larger fish species and even a pair of Zebra Shark, for which this tank certainly isn't big enough.

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    Overall this really is an aquarium with two faces: the extension is impressive, the older parts less so, though the majority is still enjoyable, it feels way to crowded and it's design is not particularly impressive. It is still a must-visit though, as the open ocean tank is something unique on the continent, but my advice would be to wait after the COVID crisis is under control... I spent a total of 4 hours here, the majority in the extension part.
     
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  3. Jana

    Jana Well-Known Member 15+ year member

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    I ´m in for the ride. French zoos are really underrepresented, can´t wait for your reviews and pics.
     
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  4. snowleopard

    snowleopard Well-Known Member 15+ year member Premium Member

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    France has been overshadowed on ZooChat for many years, with a European focus on Germany, the U.K., the Netherlands, Belgium, Czechia and even the Iberian Peninsula. I've always thought that if I do a future 'Snowleopard Road Trip' to France then I would not include any other nations and it would be a one country trek because there are a LOT of zoos in France and many memorable ones. I look forward to reading your 31 reviews with great interest!
     
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  5. Mr. Zootycoon

    Mr. Zootycoon Well-Known Member 5+ year member

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    Please tell me you didn't skip the breeding colony of Northern Fulmars just 3 kilometers north of the Aquarium! :eek:

    A fine review either way! Can't wait to read about the other zoos you visited.
     
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  6. lintworm

    lintworm Well-Known Member 15+ year member

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    I am afraid that I haven't.... I didn't even take binoculars on this trip, but on the upside I have seen enough N Fulmars in Iceland to last a lifetime ;)
     
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  7. amur leopard

    amur leopard Well-Known Member 5+ year member

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    Can't wait to hear what you have to say on Doue in particular. It's probably the hardest zoo to place on my rankings I've visited. I do certainly recommend you do go back for PdF and associated acts though ;)

    I've had a relatively good time when I've used French public transport but I have to agree that it is certainly less comprehensive than in some other countries. France is funny in the sense that it is a massive country (the largest in Europe other than Russia and Turkey, if included), yet travel times by car are often lesser than those across the UK because of its shape.

    Anyway, can't wait to hear what comes next :)
     
  8. lintworm

    lintworm Well-Known Member 15+ year member

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    With a 1 month you could probably visit all major French zoos if you would extend the schedule I used and go about in the usual snowleopard speed, which is not recommended for many others :p

    Ukraine will be very disappointed to hear that :p

    I found Doué much easier to place than Beauval, but both of those reviews will be near the end of the trip ;)
     
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  9. lintworm

    lintworm Well-Known Member 15+ year member

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    Zoo d’Amiens

    In most cases Zootierliste is a pretty good source of information to see what kind of collection one can expect in a given European zoo. The more obscure the zoo (or the more British…) the number of inaccuracies does add up though, but the general impression will remain correct. Amiens was the exception, a troll had added a very diverse bird, ectotherm and mammal collection that certainly wasn’t present when I visited and likely has never been there at all. I normally do not check Zootierliste lists that good anymore before I go, but I had some memories of interesting bird species that should have been present. When the collection was much smaller than anticipated and checking ZIMS via a friend, it quickly became clear that over 50% of all Zootierliste listings were false. Fortunately I have now changed this, so it is more or less up to date now .

    The Zoo of Amiens is one of the few non-private zoos in France and also one of the few to be located inside a larger city. The zoo is small at around 5 hectares currently, but there is an ambitious extension going on. In the future it will feature a large C-African greenhouse and a large African savanna. Currently only the Asian Archipel section is finished, but the vivarium here was still closed unfortunately. The new part does however show that the other new developments will probably be pretty good. The style is a bit like the new Paris Zoo and they are not afraid to use (black) fencing and mock rock, a rarity in Frace. A large Sumatran Tiger enclosure and a Visayan Warty Pig and Philippine Spotted Deer complex are the highlight here. It is interesting to see some remnants of the Asian Elephant enclosure that once stood there and was obviously outdated.

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    Future plans

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    Deer & Pig enclosure

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    Sumatran Tiger enclosure

    The old zoo consists of a mix of primate islands, cages with birds or smaller primates and several enclosures for other mammals. There is nothing shocking to see here, but with Dorcas Gazelle, a bachelor herd mixed with Addax, there is a nice species already present and the bird collection is surprisingly good for a French zoo. The Bush Dog enclosure was also quite nice and there was a large variety of waterfowl. With the planned modernizations over the coming 5 years, this zoo will become much more interesting. Currently it stands out as the zoo with the most wild Norwegian Rats on display. I have never seen so many of these rodents in so many different enclosures.

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    Squirrel- & Spider Monkey island

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    Bush Dog enclosure

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    Californian Sea Lion enclosure

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    Humboldt Penguin enclosure

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    Addax & Dorcas Gazelle enclosure

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    Military Macaw & Patagonian Conure aviary

    On a COVID related note: with a capped number of visitors and a clearly signed one-way visit throughout the zoo, keeping your distance was not a problem at all. Face masks were obligatory and used by everyone. Funnily no maps where handed out as one of the precautionary measures.

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    Saharan Dorcas Gazelle
     
    Last edited: 2 Sep 2020
  10. Rayane

    Rayane Well-Known Member 5+ year member

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    I remember checking the zoo's website in February, they had quite the rarities on the website but all were labelled as "Soon". Not sure if they actually had a plan to get a Terpsiphone species (not sure which one), if covid ruined their plans or if it was pure fantasy.
    Anyway, the zoo does look great, but without all these rare species, I am not sure it is a worthy detour if you are in Paris, especially if you do not own a car.
     
  11. amur leopard

    amur leopard Well-Known Member 5+ year member

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    Ukraine is smaller than France ;)

    Oh really? From what I have heard about Pairi, Beauval is quite similar in the sense that it is developing very fast. Have you still not quite decided your standpoint in relation to Beauval?

    Haven't visited Amiens but I saw at least 30 odd rats in Paris Menagerie exhibits - they were everywhere!
     
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  12. Rayane

    Rayane Well-Known Member 5+ year member

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    Ukraine is smaller than France + its overseas territories. Mainland France is smaller than Ukraine.
     
  13. lintworm

    lintworm Well-Known Member 15+ year member

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    I think someone got overenthusiastic when he/she saw all the planned species for the developments in the coming 5 years and put them in zootierliste as seen on display in Feb. 2020... The new equatorial dome certainly looks great based on the plans (not overstocked with enclosures) and within 3 years this zoo should be extremely interesting and might be worth a detour from Paris. But currently it is nice if you have 2 hours free if you are there anyway.

    I think I have figured out what I think of Beauval, it has a few shared characteristics with Pairi Daiza, as both are the nouveau riche of the European zoo world, but Pairi Daiza is wildly different in most other aspects.
     
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  14. jwer

    jwer Well-Known Member 15+ year member

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    I love trip-reports in which I feature :D

    Didn’t know if you were gonna make a trip report on Zoochat or not, but good news :)
     
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  15. Fallax

    Fallax Well-Known Member 5+ year member

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    Brilliant thread so far lintworm, looking very forward to the rest of it.
     
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  16. Arizona Docent

    Arizona Docent Well-Known Member 15+ year member

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    France is particularly underrepresented when you add in the fact that it receives more foreign tourists than any other nation on earth (present Covid year being a likely exception). Of course I am biased in favor because it houses my all time favorite: Le Parc Des Felins. (It's too bad you missed it).

    When I was driving on the freeway (A11) I discovered a driving law by observation, though it took a while and I clearly violated it for many miles. Just wondering if you had a similar experience in Western France or if you already knew about it (maybe other European countries like yours have similar laws?). The law is you have to stay in the right lane except when passing. (This is not true on the freeways in or near Paris, but was true on this major cross country freeway).
     
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  17. TeaLovingDave

    TeaLovingDave Moderator Staff Member 10+ year member

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    I seem to recall that the ZTL entry for a Terpsiphone species originally said Terpsiphone mutata but was changed to Terpsiphone rufiventer earlier this year after someone saw the animal and reidentified it - so that entry should have been switched to former holding and not deleted entirely, as the species *was* present in March 2020.
     
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  18. amur leopard

    amur leopard Well-Known Member 5+ year member

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    This is (to my knowledge at least) not a law but just a generally accepted norm. I've never seen anyone on a French highway in the left lane but not overtaking personally. Of course when there is a traffic jam or an accident, both lanes are used but the rule is generally adhered to. But to my knowledge it isn't a law. :)

    There are a few other more theoretical rules of the road in France - for example when you are on a roundabout, those who are taking the first exit must take the outside lane but those who are leaving at exits further along have to be on the inside.
     
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  19. Jana

    Jana Well-Known Member 15+ year member

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    In the Czech republic, the law says that on roads with 2 or more lanes and outside official cities/towns/villages, you have to drive in the right lane. You can enter other lanes only for overtaking. When police would stop you, fine is currently 2000 CZK (90 USD) and zero penalty points aka it is rather mild brake of the rules, similar to driving without headlights switched on.
     
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  20. lintworm

    lintworm Well-Known Member 15+ year member

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    This is the case across Europe, the left lane is for overtaking. You are not allowed to hinder other cars and if you drive too slow on the left lane this is potentially dangerous as other cars will be driving there with much higher speed. In Germany this is especially the case, where there is not speed limit on many stretches.... In fact when reading on driving in the US, it specifically said that Americans tend to drive on the left needlessy :p and as a European you should get used to that ;)

    The only source information I saw was seen Feb. 2020 which is the same as all the other fake entries. There is also not a clear location where they could have been kept, so unless there is clear evidence that they have kept this species, I am inclined to believe it to be a ghost entry.
     
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