This could be a long read so get you tea and biscuits ready (without milk and replace biscuits with bread and sprinkles if you're Dutch). I was lucky enough to go on a Dutch zoo tour (with a Colchester prologue and Duisburg excursion) recently and, rather than a TLD Forth Bridge thread, I thought I'd jot a few notes down of my visits. Colchester (23/5/18) It's been a few years since I last visited and the place, overall, appears in rude health (it even seems like they're finally addressing their biggest “blindspot” -the Pygmy Hippo enclosure). The new Chimp enclosure looks fine, functionality wise, for the inhabitants (who were not using it) but is odd-looking and, to be honest, industrial and ugly. As always I enjoyed my visit (the wonder of feeding Elephants (and also) Giraffes never gets old -I went round, Dopey-style, three times) and it's a joy to see Spotted Hyenas again (I was spoilled seeing these over the next week or so). It's still probably my favourite UK zoo and, in my opinion, second-best only to Chester -it provided a great pre-amble prior to a day travelling and then:
Avifauna (25/5/18) Overview A fine looking bird-park with a great range of species showcasing the variety of world “avifauna” and with a fair few rarities. Bigger in size than any extant UK collection -the much missed Blackbrook would have probably been a similar size, except the car park at Avifauna is many times bigger (and full). Changes Since Last Visit (N/A first visit) Highlights The row of tropical halls with their variety of choice species (Guianan Cock-of-the-rock, Wattled Jacana, Great Blue Turaco, Red Siskin, and more) is superb. I was also impressed with the sizeable hornbilll collection (including the magnificent White-crowned Hornbill) and humming birds are always a delight. A variety of large species free ranging (mostly around the lake) including Crowned Cranes, White Storks and a completely oblivious-to-everything Crested Seriema (not round the lake) were great to get close to. Almost losing my map to a very curious Raven was “interesting”. The bird show was the best I've ever witnessed. Starting with an Indian Hornbill (just imagine!) flying in from high in the air, followed by slightly more mundane Galah and Kookaburra before a finale which started with flocks of Sun Conures with Macaws, Crowned Cranes and (many) Egrets being added until there were in excess of forty birds of multiple species in the air at once -at one point I exclaimed to my wife, “are they just letting everything out?”. One The Other Hand I was disappointed not to see the Kiwi (pretty much the only “must see” species I didn't get on my whole trip) -never mind they'll be other chances in the future. The penguin enclosure was one of those small enclosure/small pool affairs which whilst adequate (and not unlike a great many in the UK) just seemed a little behind the times -to be fair I think penguin enclosures probably age worse than most other bird enclosures (obviously being far more expensive to rennovate/refurbish). If I Could Transfer One Thing To The UK It would probably be the humming birds (fascinating, charming things) or the bird show (to raise the bar and show that these shows can be spectacular and without reliance on birds of prey, only imagination/ambition is needed).
Safarpark Beekse Bergen (26/5/18) Overview Compared with UK equivalents, this is a safari park on steroids. It's got all the usual safari park species in impressively sizeable groups but adds in the viewing options of walking (offering alternative views on the drive round reserves) and a boat cruise (offering an alternative view of one side of the park/reserves) -realistically most people will combine all three modes of transport to view the animals. As well as views of the safari park reserves the walk around area offers a nice smattering of non-safari park species in (mainly) large, well landscaped enclosures -these include Gorillas (two groups -batchelor and breeding), Chimps (two groups), Sloth Bear, two species of hyenas and a nice selection of birds (usually overlooked at safari parks). Changes Since Last Visit (N/A first visit) Highlights The sheer size, scale of species and overall quality of enclosures was impressive in itself but the Elephant enclosure in the walk around area was a standout -it was vast (two football pitches? more?), the biggest I've ever seen and shared with a large and active group of Hamadryas Baboons. Overall it's good to see a place deliver on the potential of the safari park concept -a large variety of animals in large enclosures which remain, in the most part, visible. On The Other Hand It's a little hard going “doing” it all and comprehensively in hot weather when the place is crowded (the boats just don't have the capacity to transport a fraction of those wanting them -which screwed up my calculated route and made the day significantly more gruelling). Paradoxically, it might be a little too big -I wouldn't want to take smaller children there any more than I would to Howletts or Whipsnade. If I Could Transfer One Thing To The UK The general layout of the place (roads/paths/enclosures/water features) which, despite odd grumbles I may have about it being a bit labyrinthine in parts, facilitates a safari park working so effectively. I don't know if it was designed that well or has been tweaked over the years but it shows a clear and ambitious vision by someone(s), somewhere.
Best Zoo (27/5/18) Overview It feels like a well done hobby-expanded-to-public zoo. Like Howletts (not that it's anything like Howletts) it does what it does with little razzmatazz and can you take it or leave it -I'll take it! The nearest UK equivalent would be Hamerton if it stopped where the Cheetah enclosures start (and ever finished building) with a comparable, but new (to UK visitor), set of rarities to behold. Changes Since Last Visit (2012) Very little enclosure-wise since my previous visit, though I do think there has been some small changes to Meerkat enclosure and some of the aviaries. The truly bizarre Binturong enclosure is still there, unchanged, which was a little surprising as it doesn't really look like a finished article. The main changes are in the stock held -they've gone out of Camel, Puma and the unusual white Caracara and gone into some superb new species which brings me to........ Highlights Where do you start? For such a small place it's packed with interesting species pretty much whichever direction you look in -Allen's Gallinule, Common Kingfisher (first time I've had a good look at one), European Bee-eater, White-faced Ibis, Chilean Tinamou, Eastern Wallaroo (the only no-show probably due to some aggressive Black Swans, with cygnets, in enclosure they share) Green Magpie, Japanese Squirrel, White-striped Dorcopsis (truly strange looking things -I love 'em), Chacoan Mara, Yellow-throated Marten, Eastern Spotted Skunk and Maguari Stork. How far would a UK zoo-nerd drive to see such a collection. They've also got other, slightly more typical fauna as well -it was great seeing a Tamandua youngster, mice housed in a loaf and being able to play chase with a couple of young Sri Lankan Leopards chasing me back and forth along the front of their enclosure. On The Other Hand The Marten and Lynx enclosures were a little on the small side (that said the Lynx was in fantastic condition as were all animals I saw). Apart from that, as a zoo-nerd, it's had to criticise the place -sure it could be more glossy or have a guide book but that's not really what it's about -it's a collection of interesting animals presented in a quiet pastoral setting (surrounded by fields a la Hamerton) for your delectation. If I Could Transfer One Thing To The UK Rather than try to single out a single species (Sophie's choice) I'd bring over the vibe of the place. On a sunny Sunday morning it was “ticking over busy” without feeling crowded and seemed full of small varied groups of people quietly enjoying the animals, everybody seemed to be happy and at peace. Lovely.
Dierenpark Zie-Zoo (27/5/18) Overview The best UK equivalent for this would probably be Hamerton or Five Sisters Zoo but with serious “will to power” going on. This place is slick (signs in four languages) and ambitious and it'll be very interesting to see how it develops over the next few years. On arrival in the car park (from which it's a short walk to the zoo) you encounter a Wolverine enclosure adjacent to the car park and the public pavement outside -imagine going an evening stroll to watch the Wolverines! The entrance building is small but well done with a reasonably sized cafe and an upstairs “reptile area” -the reptiles were a little run of the mill but there was also Ring-tailed Mongoose and Kowari (the first I'd seen in a while). Leaving this building you enter a maze of fairly “make-do”, but adequate, enclosures which I believe to be the older part of the zoo. There are some nice species in this area and I especially liked the small aviary with gulls and seeing Serval with young. Leaving this area one enters a more spacious area where the ambition of the place is evident -there are large enclosures for, amongst others, Spotted Hyena , Dhole and a very impressive expansive mixed South American enclosure with satellite exhibits for two species of coati, Chacoan Mara, Plains Viscacha, peccaries and Steller's Sea Eagle (I know they don't fit zoogeographically). Changes Since Last Visit (N/A) Highlights I was really impressed with the Spotted Hyena enclosure where the walls in some areas were made of wire mesh boxes (like those filled with rocks used to form walls in some UK enclosures) about two foot in width -they gave a real feel/buzz of proximity when a curious hyena came to inspect us. Elsewhere on this enclosure the wall dips away to be replaced by a moat and a low wall enabling clear viewing and easy photographs. Plus you can't help but get excited going around an up and coming collection featuring two species of hyena (Spotted and Striped), two species of coati (South American and White-nosed) and two species of Mara (Patagonian and Chacoan). Yucatan Squirrel, Rococo Toad and various colour morphs of Copyu were also interesting. On The Other Hand I could have done without the heavy rainstorm halfway round though this was ameliorated to an extent when a Dutch guy (who ran off from a group we had been sheltering with) came (back from the entrance building, a significant way away) with umbrellas for all (from the zoo, to be returned after use) -how fantastically thoughtful. I also didn't get to see the more obscure mongoose featured on Zootierliste (offshow, and if I missed them I don't want to know). Finally, Sod's Law meant I missed the “more interesting species in each case of the hyena/coati/mara couplings. If I Could Transfer One Thing To The UK I could go intangible again and go for drive and ambition (but we've got something similar, all be it with ABC mammals and on a bigger scale, with Yorkshire Wildlife Park) but I'll plump for the expanded South American Area -as comprehensive a collection of mammals from that area as I've seen in a single exhibition area, well done (nicely landscaped with a large pool in centre) and seemingly/presumably done at a reasonable cost. As well as the familiar Patagonian Mara, Capybara, Tapir and Rhea there were also Anteaters, Vicuna, swans, two species of coati, Agouti, White-collared Peccary, Plains Viscacha and Yucatan Squirrel. How many UK zoos wouldn't be improved with a transplant of that exhibit/those species?
(Royal) Burgers' Zoo (29/5/18) Overview This place really needs little introduction, it's one of the premiere zoos of Europe (though should never have beat Wroclaw on ectotherms). There's nothing really comparable in either the UK or Europe (AFAIK) -big/huge biome-related areas/exhibits together with a smattering of older exhibits and a superb Chimp/Gorilla complex. Changes Since Last Visit (2012) Apart from the greenery in Rimba having thrived Mangrove has been built. They've also got Beisa Oryx (lovely animals) and, in Mangrove, the fantastic Fiddler Crabs. I believe the superb large statues of Gorilla, Giraffe and Rhino outside the zoo might be new too. Highlights I love the international facing nature of the zoo -not only are the animal signs in multiple languages (English included) so are the directions, interactive material and even temporary notices! It's good to feel so welcome. Exhibit-wise it's hard to choose a single standout or even a small handful thereof. I particularly love the opening area of Ocean, all of Safari (with it's large numbers of most species held) and Desert and Rimba are fantastic too but my current favourite is the new Mangrove exhibit. It's just so perfectly balanced -good species mix, well landscaped and planted, cooler fans in a couple of areas (very welcome on the very hot day I visited), good interpretive material and very knowledgable (English speaking) volunteers. It's a joy to see the Manatees in their new enclosure, the large variety of butterflies and spotting the choice bird species is great fun but the waving Fiddler Crabs were a revelation. The more you watch the more fascinating they become. They're a great exhibit and I salute whoever had the imagination and cojones to suggest such a large, expensive, exhibit for a small species and see it to fruition -proof that any animal can be interesting if well presented. Species-wise it was nice to see the Ringed Seal, Ringtail and Golden Jackal again, (smaller) exhibit-wise I'd give props to the very spacious reptile enclosures in Rimba. On The Other Hand I'm not such a great fan of Bush, I know this borders on sacrilegious but it's like those films/albums (Tarkovsky, Beefheart) that are historically important and generally highly regarded which I can admire but can never truly love. It's a bit too maze-y, difficult to spot things without devoting disproportionate amounts of time to it and just too hot and sweaty to stay in for long when it's warm (at 30 degrees, outside, on the day of my visit it was near-intolerable inside). It's probably great in winter when it's an alternative to the cold outside of other exhibits but I suspect it's not much fun during a long, hot summer. If I Could Transfer One Thing To The UK I'd be greedy wanting the whole Mangrove exhibit so I'll settle for the Fiddler Crab portion of it (perhaps it would work as part of Living Coasts?).
Zoo Duisburg (30/5/18) Overview It's really all about the species list here, there's very little that truly stands out, exhibit-wise. But what a species list! I think it's often overlooked that, as well as a fantastic selection of zoo-nerd species, the place also has a very comprehensive ABC collection too meaning it keeps Joe Public happy (and visiting) as well as treating those with an eye for the more esoteric. Changes Since List Visit (2010) The outdoor Gorilla enclosure has now been completed (nothing special but nice enough). The new Spectacled Bear enclosure is very nicely landscaped (and it was nice to see two bear cubs playing in part of it). The refurbished aquarium is small but superbly done -around a dozen or so tanks, all with very clear water and viewing, and all with a nice selection of species (I think Cannonball Jellyfish was a new species for me). They've also just broken ground on what looks will be an impressively large walk-through aviary too. Baby's looking visibly older. Highlights As alluded above, it's all about the species. I'll avoid listing them out as most know what they have (and if not there's Zootierliste). I particularly enjoyed Fossa's (they held five or six over a series of enclsoures), Kori Bustards (great, fearsome looking beasts) the young Wombat, active Koalas and my first (unfortunately inactive) Tasmanian Devils which were smaller than I thought -and I was expecting them to be small! Also, a Dolphin show is always a rare and appreciated treat, especially for a UK zoogoer. And last, but the opposite of least, there's Baby (completely humbling and somewhat emotional to spend time in his company). On The Other Hand Enclosure-wise the place, possibly Rio Negra aside, is pretty much all functional and near-“meh” (though I do like the ability to see the Lions without a glass barrier in their internal quarters). I also feel the far-side of the zoo seems a little wasted and under-used (especially the maze-like and, to me, largely pointless large oriental garden). If they ever went out of Dolphins, primate house aside, they'd really not be much to draw one over the bridge. Finally, the bird aviary in the primate house is my new-record “most rodent infested enclosure” -my wife queried, “are those birds meant to be in the mouse enclosure?” If I Could Transfer One Thing To The UK Much that I'd like Dolphins (done well, a la Harderwijk) in the UK I know, for the moment at least, it's largely unrealistic (cost-wise, regardless of politics). So I'm going to plump for the collection of Australian animals which I think could be housed relatively inexpensively and obtained by an individual with the drive to do so (someone like Todd Dalton or Andrew Swales). This fine selection of Australian species (possibly the best in Europe?) could enhance any UK collection, wouldn't take up that much space and, if done well, could be a huge draw for the public. London what are you waiting for?
Diergaarde Blijdorp (Rotterdam Zoo) (1/6/18 and 2/6/18am) Overview A thoroughly modern(ised) world-class zoo that's managed to successfully change to a well-defined zoogeographic layout. Only a serious curmudgeon would complain if this were their local zoo. It has a fine collection of animals, ticking most of the ABC boxes but still having enough unusual fauna to satisfy (us) more demanding connoisseurs. Changes Since Last Visit (2012) The Riverhall is now completely denuded and turned into a children's play area. The Gelada enclosure is complete but currently missing Gelada (I can't imagine those lush lawns will last long). Amazonica (a vast butterfly exhibit) was new and I liked it ita lot. It was very well landscaped/planted and had some nice side-exhibits and some impressively large Arapiama (a number hitting six foot/two metres). A crowning glory, for me, was the Okapi enclosure/aviary which didn't hold Okapi and had minimal plants last time -how it's grown (more about that shortly). Highlights The entire African area of the zoo is truly superb encompassing a large vulture aviary, a large mixed savannah exhibit with around ten giraffes (including one a few days old) with side-exhibits of Hyena and Cape Ground Squirrels, nearby exhibits for Gorillas, Black Rhino, Pygmy Hippo and a number of others, a “crocodile hall” with two species of Crocodilians and Black & Rufous Elephant Shrews and, rounding it off, the truly superb Okapi enclosure/aviary. This last exhibit could be my favourite of the entire trip -it has a large flock of Carmine Bee-eaters, various other bird species (Violet Turaco, Western Plantain-eater, Yellow-necked Francolin, guinea fowl and a couple of species of starlings) sharing a netted over series of enclosures (indoor & out) with Okapi (of which there were at least five). It was only after watching the bee-eaters and other birds for five or ten minutes that I remembered there were Okapi in view too -I'm not distracted from Okapi easily! The enclosure is superbly designed -it is walk-in/through with, largely, well-hidden barriers (water and disguised fences separating the visitor from the Okapis) and is well planted (but not so much it prevents observance of it's inhabitants). I also particularly enjoyed Oceanarium (even though a small part of it is closed off for refurbishment at the moment) -the puffins could do with some restocking though (and the viewing windows cleaned). To be honest, I think I prefer the aquarium part of it more than Ocean at Burgers' due to what seems a better variety of species. The non-aquatic parts of this area also hold some nice species too (Cuban Hutia, Lesser Antillean Iguana). On The Other Hand These are all fairly trifling whinges but annoying nevertheless. The map given to visitors is poor -the quality of the reproduction is such that you can't recognise the images of animals included. The penguin enclosure is great in theory but viewing always seems to be compromised by condensation on the windows (on all of my visits anyway). The only other minor whinge is that it's easy to get lost in the Asian part of the zoo -I didn't spot the huge aviary there until a return visit on the morning of my ferry home and, even then, I struggled to find the entrance to it. If I Could Transfer One Thing To The UK No doubt, that Okapi/Bee-eater exhibit. If only some UK zoos would experiment a little more in netting over mammal exhibits (I know zoo politics isn't always open to mixing birds and mammals) -the results can be stunning!
Final Conclusions/Random Musings Following a previous visit to the Netherlands I'd concluded that Dutch zoos, from the small to the large, are just so well done. I've seen nothing to change that opinion on this visit and, in my relatively limited experience, it would seem they have the highest concentration of the very best presented zoos in Europe (they certainly exceed UK zoos, with some exceptions, anyway). I'd previously mused that Haderwijk is the way all dolphin facilities should be and Apenheul should be the standard that specialist primate collections aspire to. I'd now add that Safaripark Beekse Bergen is an example of how good safari parks can be and Avifauna is a high benchmark for bird collections. Throw in the giants of Burgers' and Rotterdam and some good smaller collections and you have a compelling case to justify a zoo tour of the Netherlands. I'll certainly be back for further explorations. Further incentives to visiting the Netherlands is that it is ridiculously close and for the English there is virtually no language barrier as pretty much everyone there speaks (good) English -and the Dutch are friendly (they all were to me anyway). This contrasts sharply with the less cosmopolitan parts of Germany where English is not always spoken (not a criticism -it's not like residents of the UK are good with foreign languages -just an observation). We also visited the Airborne Museum in Arnhem (where we we based for much of the holiday) which tells the story of the failed wartime operations to take the bridges. It's informative and humbling and recommended if you wish to add some non-zoo cultural/historical fibre to your holiday activities. I'd also recommend the Mexican restaurant next to some fountains in the middle of the city (they serve great cocktails). We stayed at the Hotel Trix (five minutes drive from Burgers') on the outskirts of the city and I'd recommend the place if it meets your usual price criteria -the restaurant there is superb (though the portion are perhaps too large). Finally, I thought I'd throw my oar in on a couple of Dutch cliches: Firstly, the idea that Dutch children, in groups, are some kind of screaming, squealing, high-volume locust-human hybrid still holds water on my second visit to the country. I'm not complaining (too much) as I suspect I was an obnoxious child myself but it's truly jarring how utterly disturbing and loud they can be (they make UK school groups, no angels themselves, seem on half volume). As has been commented before though, they seem to turn out all right by the time they're adults (maybe they've got all the volume out of their system). Secondly, the idea that the Dutch are drug (Marijuana) fiends can be disavowed (at least compared to us in the UK). Whatever you opinion of their system I can guarantee you'll smell people smoking it far more in UK cities then you ever will in The Netherlands. In ten days over there (including two strolling around Arnhem) I smelt it only once (one of the Gorilla houses in Beekse Bergen) whereas a stroll though Derby or Nottingham is virtually guaranteed to elicit it's odours. Very finally, just to declare I love the Netherlands. The people, culture, lifestyle, the way it's run and it's zoos. If I was twenty years younger I would (at least half) seriously consider emigration.
You can’t stand downwind in Amsterdam without feeling a bit fuzzy-headed, but I think that’s from all the tourists running amok. One of my least favourite cities in Europe, alas. Can’t say I recall encountering rampant Dutch children, but maybe I’m just injured to them after Japan, where the school groups are so bad I took to wearing my custom-modded earplugs on aquarium visits.
I've still not "done" Amsterdam but I believe what you say is true. I think you're right, it'll probably be the tourists (us Brits struggle with moderation).
Great write-up! The Airborne museum is located in the village of Oosterbeek though and as a native from that village, I don't approve of calling it Arnhem
Fair (and accurate) point -consider me suitably chastised. I'd edit my post but I don't want to leave your riposte not making sense.
They have multiple bird shows and at least one of them features mostly birds of prey. They have striped hyena again? About 25% of the visitors are German, so it is pretty much a must I actually preferred it as the migratory birds aviary it was before, but I only saw it when it was relatively new, so maybe it has a bit more charisma now...
They were marked on the map I was using but I couldn't find them Just realised my map (printed from website before visit) is out of date and not consistent with the guidebook -hence my error, thanks for pointing out (I'll try to edit if still in time -damn, out of time).
Well done for producing a well-constructed thread! You've certainly given me a lot of thought about my intentions to skip some of these smaller collections on a future trip. I think you nailed Duisburg. I think it's a zoo that really suffers for being included in a trip, as opposed to being done as a standalone weekend visit. Outside of the obvious exceptions, so much of it is so standard that it gets overshadowed by the geographic company it keeps.
This was really interesting. I am still hoping to travel to see some European zoos, and looking on a map, this looks like an excellent and not too challenging trip. Did you drive whilst over there? I now have a new(er) car and just need to persuade a friend to come with me, so this could be a potential trip I could do.
Thanks for your kind words. It took a few man hours to prepare but my attitude is "we are the site" and we all have to give back, whether it's long threads or just regular constructive/intelligent comments (my personal/work life lends itself to short occasional bursts of activity rather than daily contributions but it all helps).
An excellent set of reports, happily read with a cup of tea and a muesli bar when I should have been working..... While I’d agree with your ambivalent reaction to the Burgers Bush, I would also share your hugely positive response to the zoos of the Netherlands: indicative of this is that somewhere like Kerkrade is almost obscure in comparison to the Dutch heavyweights; were it in the UK it would be one of our very best zoos.
It is a fairly straightforward trip and, yes, I did drive. We caught the Harwich to Hook of HolIand ferry which avoided a potential long drive up from Calais. The first twenty minutes off the ferry is worst (in terms of getting your bearings and the non-main roads) beyond that it's fairly straightforward. Dual carriageway and motorway driving is the easiest it's left turns at junctions which I find strange as there doesn't appear to be space to turn into. Obviously SatNavs make things a lot easier and reduce potential for confusion. My mantra I chant, if confused, is "hugging the curb, hugging the curb" as when in any doubt as to where you need to be as, you should be next to the curb (I'm assuming right hand drive). I never really had to drive more than about 70 minutes to get anywhere I wanted (driving in summer meant all my driving was in daylight too which simplifies things). It's amazing how quick you adapt to the new driving rules and in less than a week it didn't even feel alien let alone difficult. My only errors were when I approached a lever barrier in a hotel car park and instinctively went the wrong side. Good luck!
