In early February 2019, my wife and I flew to Colombo, Sri Lanka. This was our first visit to this country. Taking a taxi to a hotel in south Colombo, we were amazed at the way people drove. Having driven in several Asian countries we have seen lots of questionable driving practices, but nothing like we saw here. If there are rules they are well hidden! Chaos is probably the best I can say, but I must also say that we saw no accidents. Traffic moves around, often with just mm between them and any small gap in the traffic is quickly filled by a bus, tuk tuk, car, truck, motor bike, scooter, tractor or whatever other means of traffic is available. My advise is that you do not drive yourself in Colombo. The cost of a car and driver is much the same as hiring a car for a day; in fact it is probably cheaper and much safer. A car and driver took us south, following the west coast road, to Ulugama, near Bentoto, about a 2 hour journey. The following day we went on a Bentoto river tour. Any tour is called a safari, even if it only takes a few minutes. This was quite enjoyable and the guide was very good, picking out lots of features and species for us. Several bird species were seen, along with Purple-faced leaf monkeys, squirrels,water monitors, snakes, frogs, a chameleon and fruit bats. Well worth the 2 hours spent on the boat. Later on we walked around a small park, with a lake, where again several bird species were seen and photographed. The next day we had a tuk tuk tour. This is always a good way of seeing an area at a very reasonable cost. All you have to do is stop a driver and explain what you want to do and see. Always ask for a set price for his time, and if you think it is too much then make him an offer. Bear in mind that wages here are not high, so be prepared to give him a bit more at the end, considering the time spent and how helpful he was. Most tuk tuk drivers have enough English to be able to understand each other. Everywhere we went we found folks to be friendly and helpful. Further south, in another car, we arrived in Galle, where we had look at the large fort. Very large fort! Also near here we had a visit to a moonstone mine and showroom. Interesting to see and learn about moonstones, but they were a bit too expensive for us to buy. Lots of interesting old buildings here. Still following the coast and heading around the southern parts we arrived at Weligama, a small picturesque fishing town with really nice beaches. Birds are easy to see around here. Not far away is Mirissa, where there are again nice beaches. From here you can take a boat to see the blue whales, not far offshore. We did not do this, but probably should have! Instead we walked around, spending some time at the harbour looking at a variety of fishing boats and a quiet stroll along the beach. We continued on, by car, through some nice scenic areas, to Tangalla. We stayed in a place a few kilometres from the town, besides a small lake, and surrounded by quite thick vegetation. There were lots of birds here. Egrets, spoonbills, herons, water hens, kingfishers and several waders were all easy to photograph. Oriental magpie robins, koels, rose-ringed parrots and several other species all easy to spot. Good place. Next place we stopped was Hambantoa along side a large salt mining area. There were a few birds to be seen but too far away to get decent pictures. Several painted storks seen here, also several grey langurs, sunbirds,wild peafowl, babblers and several other unidentified birds, plus one long, thin snake. This is a drier region. Up now we had been seeing very lush green vegetation everywhere. This was an area badly affected by the 2004 tsunami and where many people lost their lives. Another interesting harbour, with many colourful fishing boats. The town is also quite interesting, with a variety of old buildings, mosques etc.. The following day we set off early to see Bundala National Park, in one of the many safari vehicles that travel here each day. As there were only 2 of us we had plenty of room. On entry we paid the fees and were allocated a guide. Although his English was not too good we managed OK., and he was really good at quickly spotting the wildlife and identifying each species. He was also armed with a bird field book, which came in very handy. A fairly dry area, with coastal wetlands and lagoons here and there. These were mostly dry but some still held enough water to attract a variety of species, including water buffalo and elephants, toque macaques and grey langurs . Along the banks of one large lagoon there were some quite large mugga crocodiles. Many birds species can be seen here including the National bird, the Sri Lankan junglefowl. Quite spectacular bird with a beautiful golden comb. Many birds were close enough to photograph. A few mammals were also seen including a mongoose and a jackal. I can recommend a visit to Bundala to anyone interested in wildlife. After our enjoyable trip to Bundala we returned to our hotel and then took a tuk tuk into the town where we walked around the shops, markets and harbour. After 11 days in Sri Lanka we saw our first shower of rain which was badly needed in this part of the country. By the next morning virtually all signs of rain had disappeared. Another tuk tuk took us to the Botanic gardens. About a 30 minute journey. This is a very large place-- too big for us to walk around, so we caught a ride on a sightseeing vehicle. Parts of these gardens have been here for many years, and one feature is the many trees that have been planted by well known people over the years. A lot of the area is still being developed and in a few more years will a great place to visit. A major international airport is also being developed here, as well as a major port, with some very big transport structures,roads etc.. Although there are many birds that inhabit the gardens they are not easy to see, remaining mainly in the tops of quite large trees. They can be heard throughout the gardens. Our next stop was at Tissamaharama , or Tissa for short. I will add to this at a later time........
Continuing our Sri Lanka visit..... In Tissa we stayed at a place which had rice fields on three sides and a large lake in front. Quite scenic. Saw several birds here including pheasant-tailed jacanas, openbills, terns, Oriental darters, cormorants,pelicans, white-bellied sea eagles, Brahminy kites, egrets, herons, a yellow bittern and several different waders. The lake also has crocodiles and lots of fish. Locals use the lake for swimming and bathing, as well as doing their laundry. The use of soaps and detergents etc., is common. A boat trip took us around a small island where lots of birds were seen. Then further in and around the lake where we saw one croc and several more species of birds. Cost of the trip was low, and we spent about 2 hours on the water. Later we took a tuk tuk for a look around the local area, including another 3 smaller lakes. Huge colonies of fruit bats were observed along with many birds. Several species were either too far away, to quick or to small to photograph. The thicker vegetation was also a problem for the camera. Here we also stopped off to look at a very old Buddhist temple. We actually looked several different temples as we moved around the country. Some were sort of similar but others very different. One had a really good museum collection which included several quite old classic cars. Most of these cars had been used on state occasions in the past. One was a bullet proofed Jaguar! Another was a pre-ww2 Armstrong Siddeley which still had it's original British number plates. Another impressive exhibit was a mounted adult bull elephant. This was a much revered animal that took part in many ceremonies over many years before it's death. There were several very large tusks, which obviously came from very big elephants many years ago. After Tissa we went to Katagamuwa, very close to The famous Yala National Park, which we intended to visit. However, after talking to several local folks, as well as a phone call to the guide who took us to Bundala and who has been operating guided tours for many years, we were convinced that Yala was not for us. The very high cost of limited entry, plus the cost of the guide etc., as well as learning that several hundred guide vehicles enter the park daily put us off the idea. We were also informed that we were unlikely to see a wide variety of wildlife, partly due to the conditions at that time, and the number of vehicles, all going to the same places. It seems that the best place to visit Yala is the top northern part, but getting there is a long and quite expensive exercise. This park is divided into several areas and there are different places to enter, all of which are highly priced and have very large numbers of vehicles every day. The coast had now been left behind and we were heading north, towards the more mountainous regions. Up to now the countryside had been fairly flat. This is a very green lush country, but gets a bit dryer as you leave the coast. Still quite green, but lots of introduced African thorny arcacia everywhere. A real problem that is now being brought under control, but will take many years to eradicate. Yet another car and driver took us further north on the drive to Ella. About a six hour journey through some nice scenery. We encountered 3 different wild elephants standing on the roads, which obliged us by backing to one side so the we could pass within centimetres of their trunks. The first of these had jungle fowl for company. Very nice to see these birds, but they quickly ran away into the undergrowth as we approached. Rice farmers have their rice spread out along the roadsides, drying, which everyone simply drives around. Hills became higher and the vegetation once again lush and thick. Very nice! Ella is quite small and a popular tourist destination. Lots of touristy shops, bars and restaurants etc.. The area is very scenic. Lots of tea grown here. The train ride from Ella to Kandy is one of the big attractions, however, a booking for a first class seat must be made up to 3 months in advance, which was a bit of a problem. The alternative was to turn up at the station very early in the morning and try to get a 2nd class seat. This journey takes about 7 hours and is supposed to be one of the most scenic railways in the world. We were told that it was unlikely that we get a seat and would almost certainly have to stand so decided it was not for us. Bit disappointing! ` Ella is known as one of the most beautiful small towns in the country and is surrounded by high hills/mountains, all covered in very lush green forest. Not far away is Rawana Ella falls, quite a spectacular set of waterfalls, about 90 metres high. Soaring above was an Oriental Honey buzzard. Another tuk tuk took us for a look around the area and almost to the top of Adam's Peak, another spectacular lookout. The Dowa temple was also rather interesting and we were given an introduction to Buddhism by a very knowledgeable,friendly monk. This temple is constructed around and under huge boulders. There are some interesting old paintings here. Several species of birds were seen in this area, including scarlet minivets, great tits, sunbirds, a hanging parrot, orioles and bee-eaters. Several birds were also seen but not identified. From Ella we drove to Kandy, through very scenic and hilly countryside. Took about five hours. Will continue this saga later on.......
To continue.... After a 4 hour drive in a Toyota bus, through good lush, green mountain scenery, we arrived in Kandy. Quite a large town, with lots more traffic and tourists. Quite a lot of things to do and see here. The place we had booked into for 3 night turned out to back onto thick jungle which had several nocturnal species wandering around. This set off the barking dogs -- constant barking!. At 2 am we were looking for another place to stay, using the IPad. Found another place and moved there next morning. (The first place we stayed at was fine, and the folks friendly, but we could not stand another sleepless night.) A tuk tuk brought us to the Botanical Gardens where we had a good walk around. Although we saw a few birds this was not as good as we had hoped, so off we went again to see the shopping area. Lots of interesting things to look at, even though we were not really shopping. Back to our new place for a bit of a rest and then, later on, we returned to the town for another good meal, washed down by a couple of good Lion beers. The stout was a bit strong at 8.8%, but was pretty good stuff. During that night there was a decent rainfall, so next morning everything was nice and fresh again. There was a forest reserve that sounded interesting, so off we went to see it. Saw nothing except trees, although some of these were quite interesting. This was Udawattakele, and I thought it cost a fair bit for a walk around the place. Later our tuk tuk driver took us for a tour around the area and we stopped of to look at several points of interest, including a huge statue of Buddha and a wood carving workshop, where we saw some beautiful wood carvings, ranging in size from quite small carvings up to an elephant carving, about half sized. The workmen were very skillful. One piece we looked at had taken one man six months to complete. Prices were a bit much for us. The following day, 28th. February, we were driven to our next destination; Veyangoda. Here we stayed at our most luxurious accommodation, a very large and expensive place that we managed to get into for a much reduced special rate. Most of the places we stayed at ranged from about $60 -$80 Au a night, and normally included breakfast. Several included dinner and the food at all of them was pretty good. We tried to eat Sri Lankan meals and were not disappointed. The only tip I have is to ask for your meal to be "not too spicy hot"! Side dishes were usually very tasty, but some care was needed, as some were very spicy hot. One I tried, just a very small amount to taste, left my lips and tongue etc., burning quite well and numb. Several accommodations were run by Buddhist families and no alcohol was allowed. A boat tour was arranged by the hotel and was rather good. After a drive of about an hour we got onto a small boat, with a guide. This lady was very good, being quick to spot and identify a variety of species as we went along. Several new species were seen on the trip, including stork-billed kingfishers. Some were photographed, but many were just too far away, or too fast for me. The journey took us along the river, into a huge lake and then into several small passages among thick reeds and undergrowth. This was the Muthurajawela Marsh sanctuary, or Negombo Lagoon, which is the largest saline coastal peat bog area, covering 7,580 acres. On the return our driver invited us to visit his home and meet his family, which was an unexpected and enjoyable experience. Managed to get a couple more species photographed here including a slider and another drongo. On the 2nd March we went to see Horogolla National Park. Cost $30 each to get in. We noticed that locals paid about $5! The man at the entry advised us that we would not see any wildlife, and he was quite right. Lots of trees and several tracks,none of which had any sign advising where they went or how long they were. Birds were heard, but they stayed hidden in tops of the tall, thick foliage trees. We returned to the West coast to stay at Negombo. Not a huge place but quite busy, with lots of touristy shops and accommodation. Not a spectacular beach, but long, with several interesting fishing boats to be seen. Lots of house crows everywhere, a few egrets and terns but not much else. At night the house crows head for a communal roosting place,usually in trees, and thousands gather together in a very noisy, crowded environment. Continuous streams of birds are seen during the evenings, as the birds fly passed. In places, during early evenings,the birds will suddenly lift off and form a great black cloud of birds - a very impressive sight. There is an interesting harbour here where many colourfull fishing boats can be seen, along with lots of other smaller craft. Lots of egrets everywhere and several large colonies of fruit bats. Following our stay at Negombo we were taken back to Colombo, only a short distance away, where we caught our flight back to Sydney. Sri Lanka has to be one of the best countries that we have visited. We liked the feel of the country, the people we met and the welcome we received, the food we ate, the scenery and the wildlife we saw. All in all a good trip!
We were also in Sri Lanka in earl February, but stayed in completely different places from yours...... We stayed in Wilpattu for two nights, Sigiriya for three nights, Kitulgala for one night, Sinharaja for one night and Mirissa for one night. The highlight species during our trip included: Leopard (Wilpattu), Jungle cat (Wilpattu and Sigiriya), Fishing cat (Sigiriya), Golden palm civet (Sinharaja), Common palm civet (Sigiriya), Small Indian civet (Wilpattu, Sigiriya), Ruddy mongoose (Wilpattu), Grey mongoose (Sigiriya), Brown mongoose (Mirissa), Golden jackal (Sigiriya), Sloth bear (Wilpattu), Grey slender loris (Wilpattu, Sigiriya), Purple-faced langur (Sigiriya, Sinharaja), Tufted grey langur (Wilpattu, Sigiriya), Toque macaque (Wilpattu, Sigiriya), White-spotted chevrotain (Wilpattu, Sigiriya), Red muntjac (Wilpattu), Chital (Wilpattu, Sigiriya), Sambar (Wilpattu, Sigiriya), Wild boar (Wilpattu, Sigiriya), Blue whale (Mirissa), Elephant (Wilpattu), Indian crested porcupine (Wilpattu, Sigiriya), Lesser false vampire bat (Popham Arboretum near Sigiriya). For the birds, the most marvelous experience was our encounter of a bird wave in Sinharaja, which composed of Red-faced malkoha, Malabar trogon, Ashy-headed laughing-thrush, Orange-billed babbler, Lesser yellownape, Black-hooded oriole and White-vented drongo!
Wow! You did better than I did, and I thought I did OK! It is likely that we will return and have a look at the northern area.
Very nice im sure,and i may have missed it..but where`s the bit about zoos?(given the nature of this chatroom). I doubt that many people on here would go to a capital city that has a zoo and not even bother to visit it.
Thank you for your interest. Although, as you point out, the nature of this site is about zoos I remind you that all of the species we keep confined were once wild. My main interest in life has been animals, both captive and wild. Visiting zoos is still an interest for me, but I now rarely go to a zoo that does not have a good write up, or reputation. The Sri Lankan zoos were not high on my list, preferring to spend my time seeing as many wild species as I could, and trying to photograph of film them. I am sure that there are many folks who spend time in major cities and for one reason or another, do not visit a zoo. My information about my trip was simply to let others know some of the places I visited, and experiences I had. Sorry you are disappointed with the info. I actually left quite a lot out!
